Greetings from Olympia, Washington

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Grossman, Zoltan C. (GROSSMZC@uwec.edu)
Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:31:14 -0500



Subject: Greetings from Olympia, Washington
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:31:14 -0500
Message-ID: <B14120EE5C432443B21102F7925DAD0202E3F583@COKE.uwec.edu>
From: "Grossman, Zoltan C." <GROSSMZC@uwec.edu>

PHOTOS WITH THIS LETTER at http://academic.evergreen.edu/g/grossmaz/enticement.html

Dear Friends,

We are settling in to our new home in Washington state, and wanted to let you know about our move and what we've been up to in the three weeks since we arrived. Although we are excited to finally be here, we miss our many friends back in the Midwest. Our thoughts have also been with the victims along the Gulf Coast, and the evacuees who did not have any choice to move. (We'll be helping them in the months ahead, and know that you will be too.)

We left Eau Claire early on the morning of August 13, and stopped at Buena Vista Park in Alma (where we got married) to say goodbye to this beautiful spot along the Mississippi River . On the way up the steep bluff, our cats Sammy and Godzilla started yowling because their ears were popping. (We told them to swallow, but they didn't listen.)

We crossed the river out of Wisconsin, listening to the Kasey Chambers lyrics ?If I'm not here in the morning/I'll cry a river of tears/I'll learn to live in a new town/But my heart is staying here.? We were off on our westward journey in our red Mazda, with food, bedding, and feline livestock in tow.

For the rest of our 4-day trip, the kitties were fine, sleeping in the carriers, and sniffing up each motel room like it was their new home. On our first night we stayed at a hotel overlooking the Missouri River, at Chamberlain, South Dakota (where we ran into our old friend Sandy Whitehawk and her family at a store). After we crossed the Missouri, we started to see beef cattle grazing, and knew we were in the West.

On the Interstate, we also noticed thousands of motorcycles in the eastbound lanes, and absolutely none in our westbound lanes. It was the last day of the Sturgis bike rally, and of course the cats begged to go to the rally. We relented, and drove down the Main Street to see the big bikes. (The kitties wanted Harley tattoos, but we had to draw the line somewhere.)

We passed by the Black Hills and the Bighorn Mountains, watching antelope dart by the roadside, and stopped at the Crow Reservation in Montana, to visit a friend who lives on the site of the Little Big Horn Battle, and first saw smoke from a distant fire. In Hardin, we saw tribal fire crews from the Great Lakes who were helping to fight the numerous fires. We passed by the Absaroka Range, and saw the big copper mine pit at Butte. After entering the Bitterroot Range west of Missoula
(cool town), we saw widespread destruction from the fires, and a purple haze still in the air.

We arrived in Washington state on August 16th, passing by sagebrush hills, vast, endless wheat fields, and the enormous Columbia River Gorge. After crossing the Cascades at Snoqualmie Pass, we had to stop in Roslyn, where Northern Exposure was filmed. The Main Street storefronts are just like they were in the TV series, and the town still looked like it was in Alaska.

We finally descended into the lush green and tall trees of western Washington. To our surprise it was sunny, and has remained so ever since. [THIS PASSAGE CENSORED BY WASHINGTON STATE AUTHORITIES. THE REGION IS ALWAYS RAINY AND DREARY. DO NOT EVEN THINK OF MOVING HERE.]

We moved into our house in Olympia the next day, greeted by Zoltan's parents visiting from San Francisco to help us move in. The cats were kept in a bedroom as boxes were unloaded, and then let out to explore their new home. They also want to explore outside, but Debi is afraid they'll take an ?Incredible Journey? back to Wisconsin.

Our new house has four rooms upstairs, and a guest room downstairs. The yard has a huge cedar tree, roses, pear trees, strawberries, and we haven't yet begun to landscape the yard. Mount Rainier is visible from an upstairs window on a clear day, which in the summer is virtually every [CENSORED]. The neighborhood is surrounded by towering pines.

Our neighborhood is on the west side of town, between downtown and the Evergreen State College campus, which is an easy bike ride through forest and farms. From our house, it is a short walk down a fern gully to Budd Inlet, at the very southern tip of Puget Sound. We were surprised on our first day here to see a deer-crossing sign in our neighborhood. We've since seen deer (including a 4-point buck) on the hill leading down to the shore.

At the bottom of the hill, on a short walk to downtown, we can pause and watch the Chinook salmon in the Inlet, on their autumn run up the Deschutes River. (They will have to jump up Tumwater Falls, next to the old Olympia Brewery.) On the bridge leading to downtown and the Capitol, we can watch blue herons, bald eagles, and harbor seals scoop up the salmon. Residents walk by like it's no big deal. But we have seen plenty of salmon fishermen descending on nearby rivers and inlets.

Our westside neighborhood reminds Debi of Madison in the '70's, with a food coop, people riding bikes, bringing pies to their new neighbors, taking dishes to potlucks, and tending their gorgeous flower gardens. The whole city looks like an endless garden, with bright dahlias, gardenias, roses, wild blackberry bushes, and much more. There is also a Japanese Garden, and roadside stands where you can buy a dahlia bouquet for $5 on the honor system.

Many flowers are sold at the huge Farmer's Market, held Thursday through Sunday in a covered structure downtown. You can also buy fresh peaches, pears, apples, plums, etc., fresh seafood and sweet corn, eat ethnic food for lunch, and listen to live bands. Evergreen's own organic farm also has a Farmer's Market on campus each Wednesday, as well as its own produce and flower bouquet deliveries. Though Olympia is in Seattle's metro area, and in a county with 215,000 people, much of the city is rural and forested.

Olympia has a lively downtown, with lots of culture and outdoor art and music (no mosquitoes in the evening!). We have been here only 3 weeks, and have already seen a Pet Parade, with hundreds of dogs, cats, gerbils, etc., usually dressed up and pulled by kids in costume. We have also seen tugboat races at the annual Harbor Days. Every Wednesday, we go down the hill to Tugboat Annie's marina restaurant to hear local Irish musicians jam for (and we think of our musical friend Matt in LaCrosse and Christine in Milwaukee). Debi is going to be taking singing lessons, as well as sewing and quilting lessons soon, as well as job searching and working with the Northwest Community Alliance.

Evergreen is on the quarter system, so Zoltan will not begin co-teaching the American Frontier history course until September 27. The year runs until June 16, but everyone says that late June-late September are the summer months here, when it is unrelentingly beautiful and [CENSORED]. Evergreen's Native cultural center, the Longhouse, is going to celebrate its 10th anniversary with a cultural event just before school begins.

We are taking the opportunity to explore the Northwest before school begins. From Olympia, it is an hour north to Seattle, an hour west to the coast, an hour east to the Cascades, and 2 hours south to Portland. We started by driving up the Hood Canal to see our friend Leah and Chuck and their sons in Silverdale, on the Kitsap Peninsula. We went to the powwow on the Suquamish Reservation (the home and gravesite of Chief Seattle), where the tribe held races of long canoes on Puget Sound.

To take a break from unpacking, we headed out to the coast and the wild Olympic Peninsula. When we first drove out onto the wide beach at Ocean Shores, we had finally arrived at the sea and our new home. ?Jewish and Clark? had completed their journey from the Mississippi to the Pacific.

We traveled up the beautiful coastline through the huge forested Quinault Reservation to an old stately lodge on Lake Quinault next to the Olympic Mountains. We also visited the tiny Quileute Reservation, in the coastal village of LaPush, where we dined on Crab Louie Salad while watching sea lions and giant pelicans among the offshore islands.

About 97 espresso stands later, we arrived at our destination in Neah Bay, on the Makah Reservation at the very northwestern-most point in the United States. We had been to Neah Bay together 20 years ago on our first trip to the Northwest, and not much has changed. This time we went to see the 81st annual Makah Days, a cultural festival with children and adults performing traditional dances, and the elders preparing a salmon bake. We camped within view of whales surfacing between us and Vancouver Island, across the strait in Canada. (We plan to soon visit Vancouver and Victoria.)

Last weekend we camped with our friend Cindy and her family on Mount Rainier, and also traveled south to the Swan Island Dahlia Festival on a huge flower farm in Canby, near Portland. The area between Olympia and Portland reminds us of Wisconsin, with more maple and oak, farms, orchards, horses, and wildflowers than in the coniferous areas to the north.

The Northwest weather is ideal for raising a huge variety of flowers, since winter temperatures only rarely get below 40 degrees, and in the summer it is [CENSORED]. The region has other flower festivals, including the Skagit Valley tulip festival in April, and the Sequim lavender festival in July. Debi is in awe of how much bigger the plants and flowers are here; they're ?almost like in Alaska.?

But our next adventure will be to head over the Cascades to the drier region to the east. As our friend Barb Munson first noticed, Zoltan is a turtle attracted to water, and Debi is a tortoise attracted to desert and ranching country. Here we can have both. Today we walked along the beach near the fishing village of Westport, picking up sand dollars and crab shells, and watching the sunset over the ocean (while eating smoked salmon). This weekend we're headed to a rodeo, cattle drive, and horse parade east of here.

So despite all the time we have spent on moving, we are enjoying this summer. We hope you've enjoyed your summer, despite the terrible times in this country. Part of the point of this letter is to let you know we are doing well in our new home. But part of it is also to let you know how much we miss all of you, and how we wish you would visit us in Olympia, or at least keep in very close touch. ?We'll learn to live in a new town. But our heart is staying in Wisconsin.?

Debi and Zoltan

1516 Thomas Street NW Olympia, WA 98502
(360) 754-9123

Debi McNutt debimcnutt2002@yahoo.com

Zoltan Grossman grossmaz@evergreen.edu New faculty website: http://academic.evergreen.edu/g/grossmaz

PHOTOS WITH THIS LETTER at http://academic.evergreen.edu/g/grossmaz/enticement.html

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Dr. Zoltan Grossman Faculty member in Geography / Native American & World Indigenous Peoples Studies (NAWIPS) Lab 1, Room 1015, The Evergreen State College 2700 Evergreen Parkway NW Olympia, WA 98505 USA Tel. (360) 867-6153 E-mail: GROSSMAZ@evergreen.edu Website: http://academic.evergreen.edu/g/grossmaz



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